The capital of the North Western Province, a lively crossroads town watched over by giant elephant-shaped rocks and a large ancient reservoir.
Kurunegala is a bustling regional capital set on the plains where the road and rail networks of the cultural triangle, the hill country and the north-west all meet. The town is ringed by a cluster of huge bare rock outcrops named after the animals they resemble, the largest being Ethagala (Elephant Rock), which rises more than 300 m above the streets and carries a hilltop temple and seated Buddha. A big man-made lake on the edge of the centre softens the busy town, and Kurunegala makes a handy, uncrowded base for exploring the ancient royal cities, forest monasteries and Kandyan-era temples scattered across the surrounding district.
Kurunegala served briefly as a royal capital of Sri Lanka in the late 13th and early 14th centuries, when King Bhuvanekabahu II and his successors ruled here after the fall of Yapahuwa and Dambadeniya, and the sacred Tooth Relic was kept in the town for a time. Its strategic position on the routes between the ancient cities of the dry zone and the Kandyan highlands kept it an important market and administrative centre through the colonial era, and it remains the seat of provincial government today.
The largest of Kurunegala's animal-shaped rocks, a 300 m granite dome shaped like a crouching elephant, crowned by a temple and giant Buddha statue.
A 2nd-century BCE cave temple near Ridigama, named for the silver ore discovered here, with fine Kandyan murals and Dutch-tile decoration.
The atmospheric ruins of an ancient forest hermitage of meditating monks, set in cool woodland north of Kurunegala.
A large ancient reservoir on the edge of the town centre, with a lakeside path and views across the water to the elephant rock.
A pretty Kandyan-style temple at a road junction north-west of Kurunegala, famous for its carved wooden pillars and huge ornate doorway.
The overgrown ruins of a 12th-century royal capital, with a moated citadel, palace foundations, stupas and a restored tooth-relic shrine.
Halal and Vegetarian-friendly options are tagged below. Kosher food is not commercially available here; observant travellers usually self-cater or contact a Chabad house.
Sri Lankan, Chinese · Mid
A popular town restaurant serving Sri Lankan rice and curry, kottu, fried rice and short eats alongside Chinese and Western dishes, with plenty of vegetarian options.
Sri Lankan Traditional · Budget
A government-run food stall run by local women serving freshly made traditional Sri Lankan snacks such as hoppers, pittu, roti and herbal drinks. Almost entirely vegetarian and very cheap.
Sri Lankan Muslim, Halal · Budget
A dependable halal eatery in the town centre serving biryani, kottu, rice and curry and short eats, popular with local Muslim families and travellers passing through.
Sri Lankan · Budget
A busy, budget-friendly local eatery known for generous rice-and-curry buffets, hoppers and short eats, with many vegetable dishes for meat-free diners.
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