A vast estuarine lagoon of mangroves, seagrass and mudflats south-east of Mullaitivu, one of Sri Lanka's oldest bird sanctuaries and a haven for migratory waterbirds.
Mullaitivu
A quiet north-eastern coastal town of long golden beaches, fishing boats and lagoons, set on the narrow strip of land between the Nanthikadal lagoon and the Indian Ocean.
Overview
Mullaitivu is the main town of Mullaitivu District, strung along a slender coastal spit between the calm Nanthikadal lagoon and the open Indian Ocean. Once a busy little harbour trading between the ports of the island, it is today a peaceful, largely untouristed town of fishing hamlets, palmyrah palms and wide empty beaches. It was at the centre of the final phase of Sri Lanka's civil war, and the area around the town carries deep and sombre memories alongside its natural beauty. For travellers it offers a rare glimpse of the Tamil north-east far from the crowds, with lagoon birdlife, ancient kovils and long, quiet stretches of sand.
History
Mullaitivu grew up as a fishing settlement and small trading harbour on the north-eastern coast, linking the northern ports of the island. During the decades-long civil war the district became a stronghold of the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE), and in 1996 the town was the scene of a major battle. From late 2008 into May 2009 government forces advanced into the district, and the war finally ended nearby at Nanthikadal lagoon in May 2009. Since then the town and its surrounding villages have slowly rebuilt and reopened to visitors.
Attractions
A long, wide stretch of golden sand lined with fishing boats and palmyrah palms, one of the north-east's most peaceful and undeveloped beaches.
An ancient Hindu temple on the shores of Nanthikadal lagoon dedicated to the goddess Kannagi, one of the most important Kannagi pilgrimage sites in Sri Lanka.
A large, calm lagoon whose name means 'the sea of conches', ringed by mangroves and birdlife and marking the site where Sri Lanka's civil war ended in May 2009.
Where to eat
Halal and Vegetarian-friendly options are tagged below. Kosher food is not commercially available here; observant travellers usually self-cater or contact a Chabad house.
Ammachchi Traditional Food
Northern Tamil, Vegetarian · Budget
Hygienic, women-run traditional food centre near the Mullaitivu seafront serving vegetarian Tamil home cooking - milk hoppers, dosai, pittu and rice and curry at remarkably low prices. Reviewers call it the most delicious and affordable food in Mullaitivu.
Reviews & traveler photos
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Travel tips
- Carry cash in rupees; ATMs and card payment are scarce outside the main town.
- Fuel up, buy water and snacks in town, as facilities between the coastal villages are minimal.
- This is a former conflict zone, so stay on cleared roads and marked paths and heed any signage or military instructions.
- Dress and behave respectfully at war memorials and kovils; many sites are places of mourning for local families.
- Hire a local driver or guide who knows the area to reach the lagoon, kovil and war sites efficiently.