A compact Portuguese-Dutch fort on Puliyanthivu island, ringed by the lagoon and a canal, at the heart of the old city.
🕑 08:00–18:00
⏱ ~0.8 hr
🎟 Entry: Free
Batticaloa
A laid-back east-coast city of lagoons, islands and Dutch-era history, famous for the mysterious 'singing fish' heard from Kallady Bridge.
Overview
Batticaloa is the main city of Sri Lanka's east coast, spread across islands and peninsulas within one of the country's largest lagoons. Its old quarter on Puliyanthivu island is anchored by a compact Portuguese-Dutch fort, a whitewashed cathedral and busy markets, while the Kallady Bridge links the city to long, quiet beaches. The city is best known for the 'singing fish' of its lagoon, a faint musical hum said to rise from the water on still full-moon nights. A mix of Tamil, Muslim and Sinhalese communities gives Batticaloa an easy, unhurried character, and its dry-zone climate keeps it sunny while the west coast is under monsoon.
History
Batticaloa grew around its lagoon as a Tamil trading and fishing settlement long before the colonial era. The Portuguese built a fort here in 1628, which the Dutch captured in 1638 and rebuilt, and the British took over in 1795. Through the 20th century the city was a quiet provincial capital of the Eastern Province, but it suffered heavily during Sri Lanka's civil war and again in the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, which devastated its low-lying coast. Since the end of the conflict in 2009 the city and its beaches have slowly reopened to travellers.
Attractions
A long iron bridge over the Batticaloa Lagoon, famous as the place to listen for the city's mysterious 'singing fish'.
⏱ ~0.8 hr
🎟 Entry: Free
A slender colonial-era lighthouse near the lagoon estuary at Palameenmadu, with fine views over the water.
⏱ ~0.5 hr
🎟 Entry: Free
One of the oldest Hindu temples in Batticaloa, dedicated to Ganesh and famous for its colourful June-July chariot festival.
🕑 06:00–18:00
⏱ ~0.8 hr
🎟 Entry: Free
Where to eat
Halal and Vegetarian-friendly options are tagged below. Kosher food is not commercially available here; observant travellers usually self-cater or contact a Chabad house.
Cafe Chill
Cafe, Snacks · Budget
Garden cafe on Pioneer Road with wooden furniture under shady trees, serving burgers, hot dogs, short eats, ice cream and cold drinks. A relaxed meeting spot for families and travellers in Batticaloa town.
Sri Kishna Cafe
South Indian, Pure Vegetarian · Budget
Batticaloa institution beside the lagoon serving pure-vegetarian South Indian food - crisp dosas, idli with sambar and a buffet-style rice and curry lunch. The town's go-to for a satisfying meat-free meal.
Vegetarian-friendly
Kattankudy Food Court
Street Food, Sri Lankan Muslim · Budget
Lively open-air street-food court in the Muslim town of Kattankudy, just south of Batticaloa, famous for kottu, biriyani, shawarma, watalappam and kulfi late into the night. Halal food is the default in this almost entirely Muslim township.
Halal
Akshathai
South Indian, Pure Vegetarian · Budget
Pure-vegetarian South Indian restaurant in Mylambaveli, north of Batticaloa town, known for flavourful dosas and idlis with spicy sambar and coconut chutneys. A haven for vegetarian diners on the east coast.
Vegetarian-friendly
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Travel tips
- Visit the east coast between May and September, when Batticaloa is dry and sunny and the west is under monsoon.
- For the best chance of hearing the 'singing fish', come to Kallady Bridge on a calm night around the full moon between April and September.
- Dress modestly and remove shoes before entering the city's Hindu kovils and mosques.
- Carry cash in rupees for tuk-tuks, markets and temple donations, as card payment is rare outside hotels.
- Hire a boat or tuk-tuk to explore the lagoon and its islands, best in the cool of early morning.
